Should I Buy Used R/C Equipment?

We would rather not get too involved in selling used equipment unless it's our own. There are some forums & websited  offering to buy second hand.

Buying

Know the seller. If you see something for sale that you are interested in, you should ask a lot of questions. Get references. If they use us  for a reference, be sure to call me.
Just because someone says I'll vouch for them doesn't mean I will. Anyone can say that. And remember, even if they use me, and you call me, all I can do is tell you what I know.
It's your responsibility to make sure what you are buying is a good deal. I can only tell you if the guy has been honest with me.

• Ask for pictures...good pictures. A picture of a Drone sitting on the ground 10 feet away doesn't tell you much.
• Ask for close up pictures and lots of them. Email them to me if you don't know what to look for.
• Ask how long it's been since the product was run. I know I have some machines hanging around that need the engine overhauled because they've been sitting around for years.
• Ask if the model was built from a kit or upgraded from another model. If someone is selling, Usually upgrades do not have everything the real model would.
• Don't expect much out of a used stuff. Plan on spending some money on it, regardless.
• Find out everything that's included in the price, like servos, receiver, gyro, motor, blades

It's way too often that someone buys a setup on Ebay and finds out that it's a model that's been out of production for many years and parts aren't available.
Use your head...be informed...before you buy. If you get hung with one of these models, give us a call. We might be able to help. At least you'll know where you stand.

Remember, Cheap stuff becomes the most expensive, its Very rare that someone selling good things for Cheap, always ask yourself : Would you sell new car for 50% of it cost? why should someone do that?

Unlike NiCd batteries, lithium-polymer batteries are environmentally friendly. For safety reasons, it’s best that LiPo cells be fully discharged before disposal (however, if physically damaged it is NOT recommended to discharge LiPo cells before disposal - see below for details). The batteries must also be cool before proceeding with disposal instructions.

To dispose of LiPo cells and packs:

1. If any LiPo cell in the pack has been physically damaged, resulting in a swollen cell or a split or tear in a cell’s foil covering, do NOT discharge the battery. Jump to step 5.
2. Place the LiPo battery in a fireproof container or bucket of sand.
3. Connect the battery to a LiPo discharger. Set the discharge cutoff voltage to the lowest possible value. Set the discharge current to a C/10 value, with “C” being the capacity rating of the pack. For example, the “1C” rating for a 1200mAh battery is 1.2A, and that battery’s C/10 current value is (1.2A / 10) can be used, such as a power resistor or set of light bulbs as long as the discharge current doesn’t exceed the C/10 value and cause an overheating condition. For LiPo packs rated at 7.4V and 11.1V , connect a 150 ohm resistor with a power rating of 2 watts (commonly found at Radio Shack)to the pack’s positive and negative terminals to safely discharge connecting it to an ESC/ motor system and allowing the motor to run indefinitely until no power remains to further cause the system to function.
4. Discharge the battery until its voltage reaches 1.0V per cell or lower. For resistive load type discharges, discharge the battery for up to 24 hours.
5. Submerse the battery into bucket or tub of salt water. This container should have a lid, but it should not need to be air-tight. Prepare a plastic container (do not use metal) of cold water. And mix in 1/2 cup of salt per gallon of water. Drop the battery into the salt water. Allow the battery to remain in the tub of salt water for at least 2 weeks.
6. Remove the LiPo battery from the salt water, wrap it in newspaper or paper towels and place it in the normal trash. They are landfill safe.

A bare bones new setup will cost about 300- 1000 Eur. You should consider this amount to start with, dont compromise on cheap setups from different sources like Ebay..
Most of the companies selling on Ebay because they have problems to sell it in "Ultimate way", so check carefully.
Spending 1000 euros on certain set and getting disappointment later on is last thing we want, Make a research, then make an appointment with our people. We are all modelers, so we would sell only what we think we would fly.

If your budget doesn't go even that high, or if someone is trying to sell you a setup for less than that, consider a "Second Hand"  setup. We dont sell used equipment and we do not recommend tostart with.. you never know the history of those items, and its important to have good conditioned equipment.

When you have decided what items you want please shop with your shopping cart, and submit the order, following shopping steps.

Payments: We accept VISA & Master Card via  Paypal , Western Union ,Etc.

There is a special place to insert comments while ordering.
Please don’t forget your contact details, address, etc..  - If you didnt get your order, probadly your E-Mail address is not correct!

Please be aware that shipping charges not yet configured and they will be added manually.
We will advise you of the best, fastest and cheapest way to get the goods. f you have any comments, please email us.
All charges will be in Euros only, Other Currency is only for Reference.
Please check with online currency converter in order to get prices in your local currency.
Tip- Many customers reported on very good Conversion rate given to them from local Bank/ C.Card company .Check with them. 
If there is a problem with your order, you will hear from us, If you didnt, No news= Good News

The list is not as simple, its vary from modeler to modeler.
We suggest you to make an appointment with us and we will discuss and tailor your list for only your needs

Alright, you've built your model, you've programmed your radio, and tomorrow is the big day. You're going to fly your heli for the first time. It's normal to be a bit nervous, you've spent a lot of money on your new heli, and a lot of time building it. OR perhaps you bought a ready to fly model, no matter it's new, and you spent your hard earned money on it!  Here's some tips to have success with your first flight!

1:  Charge your  batteries!

That includes your receiver pack, and your transmitter. Whether your model is electric or nitro, it is really important to have your batteries fully charged. Nothing's worse than watching the day pass you by when you sit and charge! It's a great idea to charge your batteries the night before, that way you don't have to spend a bunch of time waiting at the field for them to charge, plus most transmitter and receiver batteries do much better with a slow overnight charge.

2:  Pack up and don't forget stuff!

While at the field you'll want a tool box with the tools you used to build your helicopter. Ideally, if you built your model perfectly you wouldn't need any tools, but you'll want them there just in case. Don't forget your Transmitter, Your glow igniter, your fuel, your fuel pump, your starter, and of course your Heli! It's also a good idea to bring the manual for your Heli, Transmitter, and gyro! Chances are you'll be doing some fine tuning and the manual may help.

3:  Setup all your gear!

Pick a spot at the field where you can set all your gear, we  recommending flying at a certified AAM/VML site, so be sure you follow the clubs procedures regarding your frequency, some clubs still require you to pull a pin even if you're operating on 2.4GhZ. If there are any knowledgeable heli guys at the field already, see if any of them would be willing to help you out with your first flights. Most people are happy to help a beginner, as long as you don't request that they fix a bunch of stuff on your heli. WIth their help, check the basics, a range check should be performed each day before flying. Check that your servos are all operating correctly, and that the batteries are still charged.

4:  Perform a pre-flight inspection!

Perform a Pre-Flight inspection of your model before you start it. Check your ball links, screws, nuts, blades, and all moving parts on your Heli. The more careful you perform the pre-flight inspection, the better chance you have of catching a problem before it causes a crash!

5:  Turn on your equipment!

Turn on your transmitter, then the model, and start your heli, or if it's electric plug in the battery. Carry out your helicopter to the line watching to be careful that you're not getting in the way of any other modelers. Spool it up, and do your thing, fly circuits, or hover. Remember to be safe, and follow the established club rules. In most clubs safety is a BIG deal, and it should be a big deal to you too. When your helicopter is nearly out of fuel, or battery becomes low, land safely. Stop the engine, and when it is safe, meaning no other models are buzzing around your landed model, quickly walk out and retrieve your model.

6:  Post flight inspection!

Return to the bench where you started your model, turn off the receiver, and then turn off the transmitter. If you grabbed a frequency pin, put it back so anyone waiting to use your frequency has a chance to fly. REMEMBER, DO NOT turn on your transmitter if you don't have the pin! Now is a great time to perform a post-flight inspection. Similar to the pre-flight inspection, check for worn or loose parts. It's a good idea to perform a pre-flight check, before every flight, and a post-flight inspection, after every flight. Nothing's worse than crashing the model because of a loose or worn out part!

7:  About the batteries!

Make sure you keep an eye on the condition of your receiver and transmitter battery. Get yourself a volt Monitor, which will alert you in case you are limited in power. You will probably get two to five flights off of your receiver battery depending on the capacity. If you have a field/fast charger, you can charge and continue to fly. Otherwise, you're done for the day!